Fès

What an incredible day in Fès yesterday.  We were up early and greeted by our guide, Haziz, who would take us to the important sites of the old part of the city.

Our first stop was the stunning Royal Palace which was built in the 14th Century.  The seven doors at the front were added in the 1960s.  These are made of brass and were crafted by artisans in the medina (the old city).  Fès reminded me a lot of Paris with its wide boulevards and one of these stretched away from the palace.  As this is an actual residence of King Mohammed VI, tourists are unable to enter inside.

Just near the palace is the old Jewish quarter.  The Jews came here during the Inquisition when they were ejected from Spain.  After World War II many moved to Israel or to western countries.  Those who remained moved to the Nouvelle Ville (the new city).

Next we headed up a hill to gain a panoramic view of the surrounding area which took in the Rif mountains, the Atlas mountains and the medina.  The medina is a labyrinth of little streets, some of them only just wide enough to fit one person through.  It stretches over 740 acres and has 9400 streets.  Haziz lived in the medina for 30 years and there are still areas he hasn’t discovered.  I asked Haziz if this was where the poor people lived and, on the contrary, he said there are some houses in the medina which could sell for $2 000 000 US.  The streets have homes but also many workshops where artisans work.

The one thing I loved about today was that we learnt about each craft and were lead through workshops and boutiques but each of them assured us that there was absolutely no pressure to buy.  This was a welcome relief after my carpet store experience in Casablanca. All of the places we visited are training cooperatives where tradesmen and women learn their craft.

Before entering the medina, we went to a ceramics workshop.  This is not allowed inside the medina as there is a risk of fire.  They first put the clay into a pit with water and allow it to sit for a couple of weeks.  The next step is for workers to enter the pit and stomp on it.  We then entered the different areas of the workshop to see the process involved in creating ceramics and mosaics.  The potters’ wheels are turned with foot power and it was incredible how fast they worked.  The guy doing eggcups was making one every two minutes.  Next we saw the artists applying the colour.

In the mosaic section, men were sitting on the ground chiselling out shapes from ceramic tiles.  These are then laid out by the artist in a pattern.  The only hitch is, it is all done upside-down, so they have to remember which colours they have used.  Some larger pieces take days to create, so the craftsmen need to have a good memory.  The kiln is fired up once a week and reaches incredible temperatures.  The fuel for the fire is olive pits.

Then we entered the medina.  For foreigners, it is impossible to visit this place without a guide.  I was lost within the first couple of turns (but then that’s no surprise).  This is where we experienced the real sights, sounds and smells of Fès.  Of note was the camel head decoration in front of one of the butcher shops and the donkeys laden with skins fresh from the tannery; now that is a smell that needs to be experienced to be believed!

Our first stop in the Medina was the tanneries.  This was one of the places I was really looking forward to visiting.  While we did see the men washing the skins, unfortunately the tanning pits were closed for restoration.  We were able to feel the different sorts of leather, with goat being the softest.  It won’t burn and is waterproof.  In the shop was a whole array of products – slippers, jackets, wallets, bags and cushion covers.

Next, we visited a metal workshop.  The silver teapots and platters were absolutely exquisite.

On our way to lunch, we visited the Medresa. This was a Koranic school and the building dates back to the 14th century. Around the walls black tiles have been carved with passages from the Koran. Some of the cedar panelling in the Medresa is original while some of it is a result of restoration work.

We had lunch in a beautiful restaurant in the medina. Our meal started with seven different salads; all of them were superb: eggplant, cauliflower, sweet potato, potato, lentils – they were all delicious. As I enjoyed them so much in Moulay Idriss, I once again had kefta, meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce.

Our final stop in the medina was the weavers where they make fabrics out of agave silk, wool, cotton and cashmere. Two of our group were dressed in a head scarf during our tour.

On return to the hotel another lady and I headed for a luxury spa.  I started my treatment in the hammam. You strip down to your underwear (no bra) go into the steam room and lather up with a thick black olive soap. You really can't have any inhibitions; of course this is a women’s only section but it was a bit of a shock (but in a way liberating as well) to be wandering around with strangers just in your knickers.  After a few minutes in the steam, the lady looking after me came and got me for my gommage treatment. These are often poor but robust women with no education, so she obviously spoke no English, but no French either. The gommage entailed me lying on a marble bed then my lady using a mitt with a texture similar to a kitchen scourer rubbing me down all over.  This removes all the dead skin cells; I think she was shocked at how much I was shedding because she kept showing me chunks of skin. This treatment is really not for the faint heart. At times it was like my skin was on fire, but it was a strangely pleasant sensation. She then rinsed me off with a cold shower and the proceeded to wash my whole body with a liquid soap.  After rinsing off, she lead me to a plunge pool filled with cold water.  In the pool, I had a lovely chat with a young Moroccan woman who had helped me a bit with translation during the whole hour long treatment. Next I was lead away to the spa upstairs where I was put in a relaxing room for half an hour, then I was taken to a little room where I was lathered with Argan oil and treated to an amazing ½ hour massage. All of this for around $50.  And this was in a luxury spa complex. End result – I feel like a new woman!  This was certainly a welcome treat after all the walking I've been doing over the last few days.

Volubilis and Meknès

To say today was spectacular would be an absolute understatement.

We started the day off with a delicious Moroccan crepe for breakfast, made by Mohammed’s wife.  (By the way, last night’s dinner was amazing).

Then our poor little donkey prepared himself again for the heavy burden of carrying our luggage back down the hill.

Our first stop today was Volubilis, the ancient Roman ruins not far from Moulay Idriss.  The buildings on this site date back to the first century.  About 20 acres of the site has been excavated which represents about half of the ruins.  There were richly appointed residences all with mosaics (these impressive works appear all around Volubilis and have not been restored).

There was evidence remaining of the olive press once used as well as the sewerage system.  The people in this community prospered with the lush fertile soil.  In fact they were so well off and had so much food, that some homes featured a vomitorium – a place where they would go and throw up (and their lucky Berber slaves got to clean this up) so they could go back and feast some more.

Of course, after eating all that food they had to try to stay in shape so there was a gymnasium and a spa.  And to finish the day off, you could head to the brothel. Easy to find, you just have to follow the direction pointed out by the enormous penis.

This visit will remain one of the highlights of my time in Morocco, I’m sure. Our small group of 12 was lucky enough to arrive early and beat the busloads of tourists who arrived an hour into our visit.  Our guide was so knowledgeable and clearly had a passion for this part of his country’s history.

Feeling a bit wilted (it was approaching 40° today), we boarded our taxis for a hair raising drive to Meknès.  Our driver was literally a metre away from the car in front of us and I’m not sure if he noticed, but I was trying to help him out with the brakes on the passenger side of the car.  Despite the apparent total lack of road rules in this country though, the people are really courteous drivers and there never seems to be too much drama.

I really enjoyed Meknès.  First of all we visited the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl which was constructed in the 17th century.  Moulay Ismaïl ruled Morocco from 1672 – 1727.  While a bloodthirsty ruler, he is noted as one of the greatest figures of Moroccan history.

As non-Muslims, there were some parts of this site which we were not allowed visit.

Next we wandered around the souks.  The first section we visited had all sorts of Moroccan biscuits and sweets.  You can’t really see it in the photo, but there were bees swarming around all of these products.  We also encountered the meat section where some live produce was being sold (mainly chickens and rabbits).  Then there were dozens and dozens of shops selling Morrocan leather slippers and Nike ripoffs.  I’m really not sure how they all make a living.

We met Saïd back in the square and he took us back into the medina for a traditional Moroccan lunch – camel burgers!  OMG, it was absolutely delicious.  We got to see some camel being butchered before going to the place it was barbequed.

Tonight we have made it to Fès and the train journey this time was much more pleasant.  We got seats and I had a lovely chat with a young Moroccan gentleman.  Thank goodness I didn’t have to endure another Russian encounter like yesterday. Big adventure tomorrow; Fès is one of the places I have been itching to visit.

On top of the world at Moulay Idriss

Today was an exhausting day but I have certainly seen some wondeful things here in Morocco.  This is going to be an absolutely unforgettable experience for me, I am sure.

We left our hotel in Casablanca before 8am and got on a train bound for Rabat.  I was pleasantly surprised by the modern train with comfortable seats and ample seating... good feeling!  We had a 45 minute journey and after storing our luggage in a cafe, we walked the streets of Rabat for three hours (two would have been enough).  Rabat is the political, financial and administrative capital of Morocco.  The centre of town is quite modern with some beautiful buildings.  We wandered through the souks where we were treated to the sights, smells and sounds of an exotic country - lots of fruits, leather goods and spices.

Next we walked up to the Oudaïa Kasbah.  The fortress and city walls date back to the 1100s.  We were pestered by a guide at the entrance here.  "There are lots of people inside the walls, you will need a guide," he said.  Saïd, our Intrepid guide has warned us about this so we gave him the flick.  Well, we got inside the ramparts and there was literally not a soul in sight.  LOL.

Arriving back to the cafe and a two litre bottle of water was certainly welcome.  We grabbed some lunch and headed for the station to board our next train to Meknès.  Remember that good feeling I had about the train going from Casablanca? That went very quickly!  As our train pulled into the station, it was clear that it was full to the brim. We struggled on board with our luggage.  The carriages were set out in a Harry Potter style format with cubicles for eight people then a walkway down the side big enough to allow you to squeeze past others.  We spent about an hour standing and then managed to get a seat but I had a Russian next to me who wanted to take up his seat and half of mine as well, so it wasn't overly comfortable.  I wondered how we were ever going to get off but our trusty guide, Saïd, managed to organise us all beautifully.

We didn't stay in Meknès but instead headed up the hill to the beautiful Moulay Idriss.  It was here that Moulay Idriss I arrived in 789, bringing with him the religion of Islam, and starting a new dynasty.  After Mecca, Moulay Idriss is the most holy city for Muslims and it is the site of pilgrimages. The town is perched on top of a hill and I felt sorry for the little donkey that was piled up with all of our luggage.  I hope the handler gives him a big meal tonight bought from the tips we paid him.

We are staying in a beautiful guest house that is run by a family and we were welcomed with a beautiful glass of mint tea.

While some of the others have gone off on an extra walking tour of the town, I have elected to stay behind and as a result was able to engage in a wonderful conversation in French with our host Mohammed on a range of topics.  I am also enjoying one spectacular view from my terrace!

Tonight we will enjoy a meal cooked by Mohammed's wife Rashida... all for the meagre cost of 85 dirhams ($12.50).  Saïd mentioned several courses.

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world...

Yes, I'm in Casablanca!

Today is my first official day in Morocco and I started off with a half-day tour of the city. My Intrepid tour starts tonight and I didn’t want to waste my day in Casablanca.  Parts of the city are very run down and dirty, for example the old Medina, but other areas built since the time of French occupation were beautiful.  The expansive boulevards are modelled on those of Marseille and many of the buildings are in the style of those found in Paris.

First stop was the Hassan II mosque.  Now, I have seen many impressive places of worship during my visits to France, but NOTHING compares to this.  The mosque was designed by a non-Muslim French architect called Michel Pinceau and two thirds of it is built over the sea.  Almost all of the materials to construct the mosque came from Morocco, except two marble pillars and the chandeliers (which come from Italy).  From 1987, 2500 workers and 10000 artisans worked around the clock to finish the construction in six years.  The prayer hall can hold 25000 people (20000 men in the main prayer hall and 5000 women in the women’s gallery).  The area outside can accommodate an extra 80000 worshippers.  During hotter months, the ceiling can be opened (as it was today during my visit).  The minaret (tower) has two laser beams that shine out in the direction of Mecca.  Everything was exquisite to say the very least.

Next we drove along the Atlantic Coast, the first bit of it was vacant land that has been purchased by international investors and in the future there will be huge high rises along this section of coast just like in Dubai.  From here we had a view of the Mosque from across the water.

We then walked along the esplanade past some of the restaurants and nightclubs that become a hive of activity at night.

We also visited the Catholic cathedral, Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes which was, quite frankly, a little bit underwhelming after coming from the mosque.

Up until this bit I was really enjoying the tour.  My guide was very knowledgeable and we conversed in both French and English on topics of religion and culture.  I was the only one and had the expert guidance of my guide and driver.  Then things departed from the script a bit.  We didn’t go to the Royal Palace gardens as described on my tour literature… instead my guide left me alone in a carpet store where an imposing gentleman named “Sammy” started to do the hard sell.  I remained resolute and told him I was not interested in a carpet.  Then he tried to sell me some jewellery… still no success for Sammy.  Finally he whisked me off to an argan oil shop where I was lathered with products.  I did make a small purchase here because the proceeds of the sales go to help women (so they say) and it did feel awfully nice on my skin.  Sammy was happy that he got a sale too… and no doubt my guide will get a small kickback.  I never felt unsafe because my car and guide were always in view... it was just more of an annoyance, but I guess par for the course in a country like Morocco.

My tour ended at a traditional Moroccan restaurant where I ate an incredible chicken couscous, washed down with a fresh orange juice all for a measly $15.  I won’t be needing dinner tonight, that’s for sure.

After lunch I headed back to my hotel in a “petit taxi” and am having a little relax before my Intrepid tour commences tonight.  No doubt I  need to prepare myself for more Sammy-style encounters… but at least I'll have other travellers with me.