Avignon

Yesterday we spent an amazing day in Avignon… almost all of it intra muros – inside the walls of the ramparts. We could have spent a week inside the walls and still not have seen everything.

Our first visit was to the Palais des Papes (Papal Palace). The popes lived here because back in the 13th century, the popes were itinerant and rarely stayed in Rome. At the beginning of the 14th century there were disagreements between the King of France and Pope Boniface VIII, so when the Bishop of Bordeaux was elected Pope Clement V, he remained in France to keep an eye on things. He also promoted French cardinals and as a result, the next six popes were French and chose to remain in Avignon.  This ended Italian dominance of the church.

During this time, there was the Great Schism in the Church. This was a split in the Roman Catholic Church and as a result there was a pope in Avignon and in Rome for 39 years.  In 1417, the Church regained its unity with the Election of Pope Martin V.

Some of the rooms have amazing frescos on the walls, but photography is forbidden in these areas.  It is amazing to think that this incredible building took little over 10 years in total to build.

On our way to the Pont d’Avignon, we passed lots of little souvenir shops selling lavender products and linen (tablecloths, teatowels, cushion coverslip) in vibrant colours and patterns specific to Provence.

We then went for a walk through the gorgeous Jardin des Doms and then out onto the Pont Saint Bénézet.  Construction of the bridge began in 1177.  According to legend, the shepherd, Bénézet sought an audience with the Pope to tell him God had instructed him that a bridge must be built at Avignon on the Rhône.  Everyone, including the Pope, laughed at him.  They said if God had really told him to build the bridge he should lift the heavy stone that was near him and lay the foundation stone himself.  To everyone’s amazement, he hoisted the stone onto his shoulder and flicked it off, down the hillside and onto the edge of the Rhône.  It was once a complete bridge comprising 18 arches, but was partially destroyed during flooding in the early 20th century.

After a very long day, we returned to the courtyard of the Palais des Papes at 9.30pm to see a spectacular light show.  The history of the Palais was told while magnificent images were projected onto the walls of the Palais.  It was truly breathtaking.