Avignon

Yesterday we spent an amazing day in Avignon… almost all of it intra muros – inside the walls of the ramparts. We could have spent a week inside the walls and still not have seen everything.

Our first visit was to the Palais des Papes (Papal Palace). The popes lived here because back in the 13th century, the popes were itinerant and rarely stayed in Rome. At the beginning of the 14th century there were disagreements between the King of France and Pope Boniface VIII, so when the Bishop of Bordeaux was elected Pope Clement V, he remained in France to keep an eye on things. He also promoted French cardinals and as a result, the next six popes were French and chose to remain in Avignon.  This ended Italian dominance of the church.

During this time, there was the Great Schism in the Church. This was a split in the Roman Catholic Church and as a result there was a pope in Avignon and in Rome for 39 years.  In 1417, the Church regained its unity with the Election of Pope Martin V.

Some of the rooms have amazing frescos on the walls, but photography is forbidden in these areas.  It is amazing to think that this incredible building took little over 10 years in total to build.

On our way to the Pont d’Avignon, we passed lots of little souvenir shops selling lavender products and linen (tablecloths, teatowels, cushion coverslip) in vibrant colours and patterns specific to Provence.

We then went for a walk through the gorgeous Jardin des Doms and then out onto the Pont Saint Bénézet.  Construction of the bridge began in 1177.  According to legend, the shepherd, Bénézet sought an audience with the Pope to tell him God had instructed him that a bridge must be built at Avignon on the Rhône.  Everyone, including the Pope, laughed at him.  They said if God had really told him to build the bridge he should lift the heavy stone that was near him and lay the foundation stone himself.  To everyone’s amazement, he hoisted the stone onto his shoulder and flicked it off, down the hillside and onto the edge of the Rhône.  It was once a complete bridge comprising 18 arches, but was partially destroyed during flooding in the early 20th century.

After a very long day, we returned to the courtyard of the Palais des Papes at 9.30pm to see a spectacular light show.  The history of the Palais was told while magnificent images were projected onto the walls of the Palais.  It was truly breathtaking.

Vichy to Provence

What a spectacular day it was today.  Anne and I hit the road early and headed south.

For the first few hours there wasn’t anything exciting because we were doing highway driving and the towns we drove past were mainly big industrial towns, so not very pretty.

Our first stop was Gordes, a spectacular village overlooking the Coulon Valley. After World War II it attracted a number of well known artists and is now home to very chic restaurants and hotels – many of them 5 star establishments.  The view looking across to this village was absolutely spectacular.

This area is a wine, olive and lavender growing region, but looking at the “soil” (and I use the term loosely), it is difficult to see how anything would grow.  It’s basically just pebbles. On the windy little roads leading up to the villages there are walls made completely of stone and in the 18th century, farmers built  “bories” – little huts made of flat stones.  No cement, carpentry or roofing was used in the construction.  These were used as storage sheds, sheep shelters or for grain storage.  There are over 3000 in the area still in existence.  Just near Gordes, we made a very quick visit to the Abbaye de Sénanque which is hidden away in the valley.

Next we visited Roussillon, a town known as the Provençal Colorado and from the pictures it is easy to see why.  It is noted for its large ochre deposits found in the clay surrounding the village with pigments ranging from yellow and orange to red. After walking through the colourful hills in the heat,  Anne and I decided we deserved an ice cream.  I had two flavours, Nutella and Carambar (For those of you have not known the delight of tasting a Carambar, it is a very famous French caramel lolly).  Delicious!

Finally we headed towards Avignon.  The area surrounding this town has many fruit trees and it is known as “Le verger de la France” – the orchard of France.  Anne and I stopped at a little fruit stall and bought some stone fruit and grapes.  The plums and grapes are perhaps the sweetest I have ever tasted.

Paris to Vichy

I finally arrived in Paris at 8pm local time on Saturday 19th October.  I was met at the airport by Adrien, the son of my very good friend Anne. After greeting him, who should tap me on the shoulder and say hello, but Jorgia.  It was a huge surprise... I may have squealed and cried.

After that, we returned to the house of some friends of Anne where we stayed for the night. We woke up this morning to a spectacular Parisian morning.  Around 20° with blue skies.

We dropped Jorgia off at the train station around midday and then headed south for Vichy. This afternoon, Adrien and I enjoyed a drink at a bar on the Allier river and then I went for a nice walk.  Normally when I come to Vichy it's cold and bleak, so I really enjoyed seeing it in summer.

Vichy became famous as a thermal spa thanks to Marie de Rabutin-Chantal, the Marquise of Sévigné.  She was well known for her letters to her daughter which began to be published. In 1676, she became ill and did not completely recover until visiting the Termal spas in Vichy. Her letters depicting life in the 17th century town are among her best. Since this time, people have flocked to Vichy to have thermal treatments.

Below: The house of the Marquise Sérvigné.

Below: La source des Célestins

The Source des Celestins is named after the Célestins monks who constructed a monastery on this site in 1410.  The spring is 30 metres deep and the slightly sparkling water it provides is at a constant temperature of 17.3°.  The néo-classical building which houses the source is classed as a Historic Monument.

There are always people at the source filling 
their water bottles.

Up, up and away!

Day zero!!!

The day has finally arrived for me to say goodbye to Wayne and Madeleine and head off on my French adventure. 

LAST DINNER TOGETHER

The planning for this trip has been underway for over a year now and it's so hard to believe that the time has zipped by so quickly. (Sorry to my colleagues who have had to endure a daily countdown since about day 60!)

I will try to blog as often as possible and add a few photos here, but the bulk of my photos will be on Facebook (when wifi permits).  

Highlights will be visiting the south of France, doing a tour in Morocco, seeing Jorgia after nine months, spending time in an Ursuline school in Vannes, reuniting with Wayne and spending our 25th wedding anniversary in Paris, catching up with old friends... and the list goes on.

I hope you enjoy my photos and the stories about this amazing adventure I am about to embark on.